Rudder Removal

[8209]

I need to remove my rudder for some paint work. Any pointers or tips on how to do it.
Thanks

[V529]

Very straight forward.

1. Remove the seats and carpet.
2. Remove the "tunnel" that covers the (tunnel) between the pilot/co-pilot feet area.
3. The two rudder turn buckles for the rudder cables are on either side of the tunnel coming up through the floor.
4. Remove the safety wire from the turn buckles (Or perhaps just one) and loosen the turnbuckle.
5. Clamp the rudder cables as they exit the fuselage just in front of the rudder horn with a small wood clamp or something that won't damage the cable. This keeps some tension on cables so they don't flop loose inside the aircraft. There are two inner pulleys(both towards the front) and they "should" have cable guards so that regardless of what you do, the cables won't come off the pulleys, but it's good practice for a lot of good reasons.
6. Remove the two cable end screws from the cables on the rudder horn.
6A. Figure out your plan for the nav light wire. If it's long enough you can just cut and put in a new electrical crimp upon re-installation.
7. Top and bottom bolt on rudder need to be removed. You'll need some small hands and fine wrenches to remove the -3 bolts and nuts.
8. Remove rudder. Watch for the double bushings on both top and bottom. There are two pieces. Don't lose them. Great time to replace them if worn.
9. To re-install your A&P (you) will need to adjust rudder travel and cable tensions and peddle alignment/travel
10. Realize that rudder cable tension is set with springs behind rudder peddles(up towards the firewall) and your feet pressing on peddles. (a bit different than elevator and ailerons which are direct turnbuckle adjustment for cable tension)

[6643]

It's not even that complex.The only tension on the cables is from the rudder pedal return springs (There is no carry-through cable). All you need to do is pull the cable slack with your hand and take the bolts out of the rudder bellcrank. I tie the two cable ends together so they won't disappear into the tail cone.

Now or at annual, it's good to check the cables at the pulleys on the bottom of the control column. The pulleys are relatively small and the cables tend to fray where they make the sharp bend.

[8209]

Thanks for all the good guidance guys.
Looks like something I can handle. I appreciate the quick response.

[6277]

I agree with John C. No need to do any more than he described. It's a good time to change the bolt that holds the tail spring set to the tail spring attach bracket. You might check to see that it is AN-6 rather than AN-5. Early models were AN-5 later changes to AN-6. My 140 had an AN-5 which failed and the tail wheel rolled up into the rudder. Luckily I was taxiing when it happened and not landing. A lot of 120/140 have rudder repairs and this is likely the cause. If you leave the nut up as opposed to the bolt head up and nut underneath be sure that the bolt does not interfere with the rudder travel.