John,
Everything checked out right until I started the engine and checked for a charge. Even flew it around at various RPMs still didn’t show a charge. When I turned the position lights on showed a small discharge. When the landing light was on showed a big discharge. Back at the the hangar it was time to flash the field. Touched jumper wire to battery terminal and armature terminal with master on. No sparks! It even has a diagram on the regulator showing how to do it.
What now??
Battery Questions
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Re: Battery Questions
OK, if there was no spark, are you sure you had battery voltage on the battery terminal? Could the generator fuse be blown? Check that, then use a volt meter to confirm you have battery voltage between the BAT terminal on the regulator (+) and the airframe (-). If that's good, remove the field wire from the F terminal of the regulator and use an Ohm meter to confirm continuity between the F terminal on the regulator and the airframe (ground). Should show zero (0) ohms, or very close to it.
If you get this far, look at this post and those that follow. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=392&start=43
If you get this far, look at this post and those that follow. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=392&start=43
John Cooper
www.skyportservices.net
www.skyportservices.net
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Re: Battery Questions
I will check it out tomorrow and let you know.
Thanks for the help John.
Thanks for the help John.
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Re: Battery Questions
I always thought it was “Flash the Field”, not the armature.
Randy Thompson A&P IA Pilot
Hold STC SA547EA for installation of O-200 engine in Cessna 120/140 and 140A"s
Overhaul small Continentals
Hold STC SA547EA for installation of O-200 engine in Cessna 120/140 and 140A"s
Overhaul small Continentals
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Re: Battery Questions
It is, but the armature and field are wired in parallel. The armature terminal of the regulator is connected to both the plus of the armature and the plus of the field. The field terminal of the regulator is connected to the negative side of the field winding and, through the regulator, directly to ground, so applying 12 volts to the armature terminal sends current through the field in the correct direction. (It also sends current through the armature, hence the sparks.)
John Cooper
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Re: Battery Questions
Those interested for a pictorial diagram of what Prof. John C is lecturing on today , do an internet search for "Delco Remy Service Bulletin IR - 116" - I had mentioned this on another similar thread but with- held the Profs name due to governmental privacy regulations! OOPS the gov is back up and running!:)
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Re: Battery Questions
PS: Note title page, our system is an "A Circuit" and see Figure 4 - our generators only have two brushes - haven't seen a three brush generator since my old 1937 Pontiac.
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Re: Battery Questions
Thanks for all the extra trouble shooting bulletins. I am learning a lot about regulators.
John, I did find a blown fuse. After replacing and starting over with the first troubleshooting you gave me.
First of all once the fuse was replaced the ammeter showed -20 when I turned on the master switch, seems like a bunch.
Then I checked power to the regulator 10.75 VDC, a little low. Battery cable to starter was 11.55 VDC just for reference. I checked the ohms on the field terminal 0.
So I decided to start it up and see what the ammeter showed. Master on -20, start engine ammeter showed -5 @ 1000rpm, -1 to 0 @ 1500rpm, turn on position lights -5, turn on landing light -15.
Ran engine @1500rpm for a few minutes ammeter showed 0 @ idle. Shut off engine, shut off master, turned master back on ammeter showed -2. Started engine and turned on lights again they both showed a little less discharge, but still -5 to -10.
Shut engine off, checked power at regulator again, now reads 12.75 VDC.
I think we may be on to something. I’m going to fly it for a while and I will report back. Probably won’t be for a couple of weeks.
Thank you for your knowledge and patience!
John, I did find a blown fuse. After replacing and starting over with the first troubleshooting you gave me.
First of all once the fuse was replaced the ammeter showed -20 when I turned on the master switch, seems like a bunch.
Then I checked power to the regulator 10.75 VDC, a little low. Battery cable to starter was 11.55 VDC just for reference. I checked the ohms on the field terminal 0.
So I decided to start it up and see what the ammeter showed. Master on -20, start engine ammeter showed -5 @ 1000rpm, -1 to 0 @ 1500rpm, turn on position lights -5, turn on landing light -15.
Ran engine @1500rpm for a few minutes ammeter showed 0 @ idle. Shut off engine, shut off master, turned master back on ammeter showed -2. Started engine and turned on lights again they both showed a little less discharge, but still -5 to -10.
Shut engine off, checked power at regulator again, now reads 12.75 VDC.
I think we may be on to something. I’m going to fly it for a while and I will report back. Probably won’t be for a couple of weeks.
Thank you for your knowledge and patience!
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Re: Battery Questions
If you're showing -20 with everything turned off except the master, something is wrong. (I assume it shows zero (center) with the master off and the engine off.) It sounds like the reverse current contacts are stuck shut. Can you take the cover off the regulator and check? The contacts with the fine wire coil (voltage regulator) and the single heavy coil (current limiter) should be closed. I think the current regulator is in the center, but don't quote me. The third set has two windings, both heavy wire, and should be open. One side goes directly to the battery terminal. If this set is open and nothing else is turned on then the ammeter should still be at zero. If it is shut the battery will discharge through the armature.
Another possibility is you have a big load on the system that you are not aware of.
One thing you could try is to remove the battery wire from the regulator and insulate it or secure it so it cannot touch anything, then try the master again. Expect zero amps (no movement) when you turn the master on.
Another possibility is you have a big load on the system that you are not aware of.
One thing you could try is to remove the battery wire from the regulator and insulate it or secure it so it cannot touch anything, then try the master again. Expect zero amps (no movement) when you turn the master on.
John Cooper
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Re: Battery Questions
When on the highway, always drive with the headlights on to avoid boiling the battery dry...
John Cooper
www.skyportservices.net
www.skyportservices.net