The Cessna 120-140 Association Forum

Has anyone replaced the top hinge on their rudder? It''s a two piece affair, item(s) 13-8 in the IPC, and quarters are cramped. I'm looking for ways to get clecos in, especially on the spar, and still have room to rivet. Also. suggestions on how to minimize the damage to the trailing edge to get a bucking bar in there.

TIA

6643 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 26, 2021 7:38 am Has anyone replaced the top hinge on their rudder? It''s a two piece affair, item(s) 13-8 in the IPC, and quarters are cramped. I'm looking for ways to get clecos in, especially on the spar, and still have room to rivet. Also. suggestions on how to minimize the damage to the trailing edge to get a bucking bar in there.

TIA

At first glance I was thinking that John Cooper will have the answer...then, I saw who is questioning . Prob not many have done, but maybe some of those who have will surface from the current convention activities with an answer. It'll sure take a "tailored" bucking bar, at least. What's the issue requiring replacement -- something we need to be looking at? Mac

I had the same the same thought too, Mac...Here's one for John!

John, I've got confidence you'll figure it out. That's one of the few things I didn't have to repair on my project.

I'd bet Ken and Loraine Morris would have some suggestions concerning this.

Steve A H

2066 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 26, 2021 2:02 pmWhat's the issue requiring replacement -- something we need to be looking at?

Yeah, it's something I haven't had the pleasure of doing yet...

If it wasn't for the spot welding it wouldn't be much of a challenge.

The problem is the holes for the hinge bolt are wallowed out and the hinge has too much slop in it. I think it comes from having the bolt loose. It needs to clamp down on the sleeve so there is no relative movement between the rudder and the sleeve. Been nursing it since I got the plane almost 30 years ago, but it needs to be dealt with this time.

I'm thinking of using a pop rivet or two to "cleco" the part to the spar, but I'm not sure if I can get the pop rivet tool down in there to pull the thing. If I had a puller with a skinny 6" nose on it...

Use the new "cleco" version of JB Weld or Gorilla glue!

I reskinned the rudder on my 140 and had to fabricate a bucking bar to get the job done.
I did not replace the hinges.

Rick

Could you use a long reamer and ream from the top opening of the rudder, then put a bushing or sleeve in it? I have no idea where you would get a long enough reamer, but surely there's one out there somewhere.

Steve A H

John, I replaced both the top and bottom hinges on my rudder, but I did it prior to riveting the skins onto the spar. In fact, the holes were “wallered out” as you described in your post so that new ones were required. I just made up a form blocks of hard maple and formed new ones of the same thickness as the originals using 2024-T3. Fairly easy on a bare spar. If the trailing edge of your rudder is spot welded rather than riveted, it is a little more difficult but still doable. A bucking bar can be made up to drive the rivets but I suspect you will need two, one for the sides and one for the “face”. Once long ago I replaced the skins on the wings of a SpartanExecutive using flush rivets, done with a field approval, and I don’t remember for sure, but I had to fabricate at least a dozen special bucking bars! The steel does not have to be anything special, but cold rolled is better that hot rolled, they last longer. Another option is to simply drill all the rivets out of one side of the spar and all the trailing edge and then everything is at hand. Sounds like a lot of work but probably isn’t more than a couple of hours work. At least you would be assured of a properly driven rivet on every one of them.
Steve Hawley

John C.

Sent PM

Thanks everyone!

Right now the plan is to use a hardware store pop rivet to hold the piece to the spar and clecos on the sides, then drill out enough spot welds to get a bar in to the spar. From there it should be straight forward. I just wish I didn't have to mess with the spot welds.

Film at 11:00...

I tried to make the parts a while back and found the experience very frustrating... If anyone wants my block of maple it's yours for the cost of shipping. Free blanks, too...