The Cessna 120-140 Association Forum

I have a similar question. I have a 3200 and although it steers it is a very small amount. By that I mean with the tail on a jack and moving the rudder from stop to stop there is a fair amount of free play before the tail wheel moves. The arms move in the slots then it moves the tail wheel. Is that normal?

8474 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 3:59 pmThe arms move in the slots then it moves the tail wheel. Is that normal?

No, there should be virtually no play before the tailwheel starts turning. Once it releases there should be no more turning action.

OBTW, the 3200 is a completely different animal from the 3-24

Ok John, so what is my problem? Is the tension on the king pin not tight enough? Is there something that is worn? I have had it apart numerous times and I can not ( without comparing to new parts) see what might be causing this. I have 3 springs installed as from what I read that is the correct amount for a 140. Any suggestions? I don't want to just order a bunch of parts that I don't need.

Here's a schematic of the steering system. The arm assy has two detents in it that the spring fits into. The indents in the arm press against the ends of the spring and turn the fork, and thus the wheel.

If you have a lot of 'slop' on the 3200 this was my problem, there was too much gap between the arm assembly and the spring. New spring made to take up the gap. Works perfect. Otherwise, buy a new arm assembly.

My arm assembly is an early model that didn't have room for the spacers.

The angle of the main pivot pin will make a significant difference on how hard the airplane is to steer.
The head of the bolt should angle slightly back when looking at it from the side.
I ended up having my springs adjusted to get the proper angle on mine. Rick

8342 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 05, 2022 6:28 amI know there are pictures on line of what Scott suggest but I am not savvy enough to post them. Sorry.

Check out this thread on posting attachments.

OK, thanks John and David. I will have to take it apart again to look at that gap but I suspect you are both correct and that is my problem. Of course the fork is the most expensive part so if I can avoid that and fabricate a spring that is longer as David suggests might be worth a try. I don't have a shimmy issue.

The (detents in the) arm assembly is what usually wears. The thing I don't understand is, once the spring slips past the detent, it won't start steering again later. I guess you'll have to take it apart and see what you've got.

Some useful 3200 info from Alaskan Bushwheel...