The Cessna 120-140 Association Forum

This is next on my list as mine is a bit stiff and I've heard too many horror stories about them breaking off.

The Winter 2016 Issue discusses this, but I have not been able to locate a copy of the Andair STC. I guess my other option is the Univair which is PMA'd for my engine.

Anyone have any experience with either? Recommend one over the other?

Thanks for the help as usual.

I've had the Univair Tank selector on my 140 for about 10 years. No problems so far.

8359 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 14, 2019 11:39 pm This is next on my list as mine is a bit stiff and I've heard too many horror stories about them breaking off.

Before spending hundreds of dollars to replace it, I'd consider taking it apart and lubing the thing. I did that to mine 20+ years ago and it's still doing fine... I'll even send you a lifetime's worth of fuel lube for the cost of shipping!

Tamer:

Strongly suggest you take John Cs advise and save some $. The last Bonanza I bought had same stiffness but prior owners IA - big Florida shop - logged they had just lubed before I purchased, so I contacted and asked how they had lubed - the IA said he had sprayed WD 40 on the valve - no disassembly -I was concerned that had it been lubed properly, then it may be rough inside, etc. However, I disassembled and applied Fuel Lube and it was still working easily about 20 years later.

Edd

Thanks Guys. I'll definitely try that first. I'll gladly put $450-$650 towards something else.

There isn't much to them, and a very small amount of Fuel Lube goes a long way....

The best fit o-ring for my Imperial Valve is MS29513-109. The original packing is about 1/4" thick whereas the o-ring is 3/32, so I made up a 5/32" spacer to keep the spring tension the same. Been working good for 20 years or so.

I have an old note about a fuel injector o-ring kit that had two fat o-rings that work as a stem packing.
It's Napa # 2-12085, about $4.50.

Thanks for the help guys. Finally got around to this today, unfortunately I couldn't get the bonnet off. The wrench doesn't fit in through the side and have enough clearance to wrap around it and turn and the socket diameter is too large where it won't fit through the clearance hole. I'm tempted to widen the clearance hole around it. Is there a better way? The Winter 2016 article mentioned it's serviceable without removing the entire valve, but I'm not sure if there's a trick to it.

Thanks all for the help.

It's easier to take the selector valve out and repair it on a work bench. Be careful when draining the tanks...if you're in cold country static electricity can build up easily. Read Neal Wright's article on Fuel Selector Valves for more information.