Cessna 120-140 Association

Within the next 6-12 months I would like to recover my wings and am trying to research and gather information about the different systems. Does anyone have any experience with the Stewart System? It sounds really great with everything water based, and it would make it easy for me to do the wings in my shop at home. The paint seems give the biggest issue, it sounds like it is a little less forgiving than some others out there. Otherwise looks pretty straight forward.

What are the little things to watch for?

What are the pitfalls (major no-no's) with using the system?

Any other tips and advice is greatly apprciated.


Thank you!

Oratex... Its the future of wing covering.

No painting, no fumes and very light.

Is Oratex certified for use on TC'd aircraft?

8170 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 07, 2019 1:44 pm Is Oratex certified for use on TC'd aircraft?

Not sure, but I know that it has been used in US with field approval.

Quote from Oratex website.

"Is the fabric certified?

Oratex is certified in Europe and Canada and FAA STCs are now available for many aircraft, including Pipers, some Aeroncas, Stinsons, as well as all Maules and Huskys. We also have field approval for Cessna 120/140s."

Has anyone on the forum covered their plane with Oratex? Not sure about my FSDO (SC), but it sounds like field approvals can be hard to get.
Any real life feedback on time, weight savings, cost, and ease of use would be awesome.

Thank you!

I just finished covering my Pitts project using the Stewarts system. I think this system is the future of fabric covering, No harsh chemicals at all, no Oder, no need for elaborate respirator breathing equipment and very easy to use. I have used or been involved with using three of the other systems, Ceconite 101, Polyfiber, and Airtex processes. No way will I go back to any of these after using Stewarts. The Ecobond, Ecofill and Ecoprime are all water based. Therefore no oder easy to use and clean your equipment using water.The top coat paint is a two part water born polyurethane. It is tougher than nails. The day after you spray it neither acetone or lacquer thinner will touch it. It is a little more fussy with the spray gun settings but with a little practice you will be fine if you follow their procedures manual. Stewarts recommends a spray gun tip size of 1.2 to 1.4mm. The one big thing I learned was to use the smallest tip you can find. The smaller tip atomizes the paint better and it will go on with far less orange peal. I probably used close to a quart of paint practicing with different gun settings before I felt I was ready to spray my airplane. I do have a little orange peal but am very satisfied with the finished product. My spray gun had a 1.4mm tip. That is the one thing I would change next time. Also the top coat paint is fussy as to viscosity so you need to take your time and mix it properly. They use a viscosity cup to be sure the viscosity is correct.

Matt

Thanks Matt, that is some great feedback!

-Paul

8348 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 10, 2019 5:57 am Has anyone on the forum covered their plane with Oratex? Not sure about my FSDO (SC), but it sounds like field approvals can be hard to get.
Any real life feedback on time, weight savings, cost, and ease of use would be awesome.

Thank you!

Hi Paul,

I have and have loads of info... UK based of course, but I know that US owners have used it also. Unfortunately there was loads of info on the old forum site but if you want to PM me with an email address I can send you as much as you want.

Best

Paul

If you are planning on recovering, get rid of any “tinnerman” style nut plates under the fabric. Swap them out with either #8 or #10 floating nutplates. We have a C120 and the wing root faring screws are always coming loose. I wish we would of put in a better nutplate.

Something like a MS21059 would be good.