Winterization Kit

[7313]

Note black mark so prop will be put back on correctly oriented when taken off in future. Note washers under bolt heads. You need to have a couple longer bolts on hand when you do this. The extra weight of the longer bolt comes into play as well as the weight of the washers.

It is important to get the prop clocked on the shaft where it has minimum vibration before you start playing with washers.

Hope this helps.

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[edidin]

Thanks John, that's very helpful, particularly the bit about stacking the deck by finding the clocking for the least initial out-of-balance.

To do so is on the list for the 120.

Av

[edidin]

Do the winterization plates go on inboard or outboard relative to the cowl openings for the cylinders? My snorkels for carb and cabin heat are more inboard. When I had a 170 I would tape or cover the outboard grill area (over the heads). Not sure if this is correct.

[7313]

The scoop on my 1946 plane is right side outboard - therefore I cover the inboard part so as not to block the scoop. They changed the muffler/heater setup in 1947 - moved it the other side.

[6643]

Regardless of where your heater inlet is, do not cover the area in front of the cylinder heads!

[7313]

Good point!

[meloosifah]

Does anyone have an actual picture of the winterization plates - the factory design? I am trying to make some now and would like to see a set installed.

And has anyone shortened the one on the port side of the cowl so that it does not block the intake scoop or is that irrelevant?