0200 case

[8233]

The last break in I did was in a 172. I agree with the advice above.

Points I remember:

• Bare minimum running on the ground

• Short initial flight and then inspect for leaks and change the oil & filter and look for anything significant. You will see some metal but shouldn't be any large chunks.

• When you go to do your longer break in flight, run the engine hard

• Don't climb too aggressively to maximize air flow since the engine will initially run hot

• I orbited high over the airport during the flight. In case of engine failure, you have an easy landing option

• The plane I flew had a Cyl Temp gauge and I watched the temp climb pretty close to redline and then it will suddenly drop into a more typical temp which was the indicator the break in was pretty much done. That's how you know the metal has worn enough that the heat from friction is greatly reduced

• As others mentioned, you can use straight mineral oil or I believe Philips XC oil is also approved

• After you land, change the oil and filter again and then follow the oil change intervals as recommended in the break in docs.

Good luck!

[6643]

I pretty much agree with everything in the last two posts, with the following change.

Start the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then, shut it down and do your leak, etc. check. Then, let it cool completely. Next, start it again and run it for another 5 minutes at about 1000 RPM. Let it cool, do another inspection, then start it and use no more power than necessary to get to the run-up area, do your runup and then take off. Climb gradually to maximize airflow over the cylinders. If you can maintain full power for an hour you'll be pretty much done.

The 5 minutes at idle is to knock some of the high spots off the cylinder walls and the full power run is to keep ring pressure on the cylinder walls to prevent enough oil from accumulating to glaze the walls. If they get glazed, the oil control rings will "skate" across the surface and you won't have any oil control at all.