More exhaust questions

[6277]

The flattened ends are for noise suppression. Dawleys redid my straight pipes. The flanges are fixed. Very happy with their work. One of the pipes was a bit off and I send it back along with the old pipe and they fixed it at no cost. IIRC the total for both sides was around $800.

[8474]

No familiar with the straight system, but I converted my pancake system to the Wag 150 system to avoid the 25 hour AD. Yes, I did need to enlarge and patch the pancake holes to fit the 150 type. Also I did buy the STC but was surprised that the Wag system came with its own STC paper work as well.....

BTW, my pancake system although had been patched/welded many times was still serviceable so if anyone wants it they will go cheap.

[a64pilot]

Would someone mind taking a picture of where the exhaust brace attaches to the exhaust pipes?
I assume it’s attached by a hose clamp?

[2066]

Would someone mind taking a picture of where the exhaust brace attaches to the exhaust pipes?
I assume it’s attached by a hose clamp?

I'd be glad to...but, I have my accessory case off right now, engine hanging on hoist, and the bracket just hanging over the gascolator. I do have a close neighbor with straight exhaust and a bracket in place...should be able to get a pic of his in the next day or two if someone doesn't respond with one here before. Yes -- if using the Wag bracket most use a good quality hose clamp with cushion ("exhaust wrap") 'twixt bracket and pipe. The OEM brackets came with a "latching, spring loaded" clamp attached (see pic). Mac

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IMG_1946.JPG (307.87 KiB) Viewed 14153 times

[2066]

...further info. on the exhaust bracket -- here's a drawing/description of an "owner produced part" shared by fellow member Still Chase a few years back. Still's "design" seemed to go a long way in handling the intended dampening of vibration & movement of the exhaust and also helped prevent cracking of the bracket (detail not shown is that the 5/16 tube needs to be slightly offset at the upper connection to clear the motor mount -- pic, below -- will make sense as you mount the bracket. The Wag bracket doesn't have the offset incidentally, but can be slightly bent to clear). Mac

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[a64pilot]

Thanks,
Yes the Wag Aero bracket is the one I have coming.
I bought the good pipes off of Ebay, my shrouds are in pretty decent shape.
So I’m assuming that the bracket will attach to the shrouds and not at the end where the pipes are?
I’m going to Jax where the boat is and I have some fiberglass cloth I’ll get for padding.

So I’m assuming the brace goes on the rearmost stud for the oil tank and clamps to the shrouds just wherever it matches up, and I may have to bend a leg to get it to clear the engine mount?

I don’t think I’ll get all the pieces parts until end of the month, but that’s only two weeks.

Does anyone paint the pipes with header paint to help keep them from rusting? what about plasma coating? Or do they fail from the inside out?

[2066]

Yes the Wag Aero bracket is the one I have coming.
I bought the good pipes off of Ebay, my shrouds are in pretty decent shape.
So I’m assuming that the bracket will attach to the shrouds and not at the end where the pipes are? YES. I've seen some attached to the pipes -- not correct, of course, but it was due to the muffs being "gone" from wear down there.
I’m going to Jax where the boat is and I have some fiberglass cloth I’ll get for padding. That should work. The OEMs had asbestos weave inside the lower ends of the muffs as well as at each of the tops @ cylinders -- the muffs were protected from wear & the clamps were sufficiently "cushioned" by that. Now, it seems a lot of folks use high temp wrap both inside muffs and also under the clamps. With your experience & expertise you'll get a good feel for what's needed there as you put it all together.

So I’m assuming the brace goes on the rearmost stud for the oil tank and clamps to the shrouds just wherever it matches up, and I may have to bend a leg to get it to clear the engine mount? Yes. One thing to be aware is IF that stud is drilled the vibration from the bracket can cause the stud to break at the hole...IF the nut is at or or above the hole when tightened...may be worth installing a non-drilled stud while you're at it. Getting to that stud with the bracket on to tighten is "fun", too, so you may want to use an alternate nut there -- John C. has suggested a part # in another post, I believe. The bracket may/may not be close to the mount tube, but if clearing by 1/4" or more it'll prob be OK -- just be sure any "bending" doesn't leave it under stress that could promote cracking

I don’t think I’ll get all the pieces parts until end of the month, but that’s only two weeks. ...just heard that UPS is in "gridlock" & I expect the others are, too. What a mess we're in!

Does anyone paint the pipes with header paint to help keep them from rusting? what about plasma coating? Or do they fail from the inside out? Yes -- have seen, but prob not of much help. Those you bought appear to maybe be SS(?)...may last for another 50 years or so (mark your calendar to "upgrade" to 150 exhaust then ). There was a chap in FL a few years back who made up almost bullet-proof heavier SS exhaust -- it'd be a real find if those you're getting are a pair of them.
Mac

[a64pilot]

They did appear to be SS, but i bet they were just cleaned up with a scotchbrite pad on an angle grinder. If SS surely the ad would have said so.
Be nice if they are 304 SS though.

Wasn’t aware of the padding between the muff and the pipes, makes sense though to keep the muffs from being worn away. I assume “header wrap” would be good for that.

[2066]

Yep, header wrap works.

[wccborn]

Has anyone had any luck getting their cabin and carb heat shrouds repaired? Mine fit horribly and with the cold weather moving in I'd love to find a way to help them seal a little better. I saw on the second set posted on Ebay there was a new style shroud. Any idea what that might be?