140A Door stop

[8474]

Helicopters are easier than airplanes, we stop, then land. Not land and then try to stop. Also don't need to be going 60 miles an hour before you know if we can get off the ground

[6183]

Blaine wrote: "...is there a gap between the bottom of the wing skin and the fuel tank?"

I can't answer, 'though would "assume" so -- someone will come along who definitely knows...good to be cautious as drilling into the tank would ruin your whole day. I did have to drill in the top of my 140 wing (over tank) a while back to enable a pulled rivet where a fabric clip had let go & I was warned to limit the depth for drilling the hole. No doubt someone who's been into the "A" wing bottom will be along...shortly. It's a bummer that you're having to go through this. Mac

I've removed wing tanks from my 140A in the past, and can attest that it would not be wise to try drilling operations in the bottom of the wing skin with the tanks installed. Tanks in the "A" model sit on hat sections of aluminum channel that are riveted to the bottom wing skins in the tank area. Height of the channel is only 5/16" plus any material used to provide cushion to the tank when it's installed. It would be safer to remove the tank if you need to install new door stop parts. Removing those tanks are not as difficult as one might think; however, some planning needs to be accomplished in order to remove the tank without too much issue. You'll need to drain as much fuel out of the tank as possible, remove the top cover over the tank, disconnect the fuel and vent lines, remove the tank straps, and angle the tank out. Very similar or same to the system in a Cessna 150 or 172.

[8474]

Thanks very much for that information, 5/16 sure would not leave much room for error thats for sure.

[4004]

Blaine F:

One experienced in drilling out rivets should, having Mikes' info, be able to drill out the button head rivet with the same size drill bit and pop the rivet head off without damaging the skin or penetrating the tank. As an added precaution, one could put a "drill stop" on the drill bit itself to preclude any excessive depth. Using a Cherry Max depth gauge, install the new assembly with Cherry Max rivets. Spruce has the drill stops for about $2.00 . 2c

[6643]

Redneck drill stop: drill through a block of wood thick enough that when the drill bottoms the protrusion is less than 5/16"

[8474]

Thats a great tip John!

[6339]

2A3044A0-350A-42F3-9111-7C7F18878A7E.jpeg (110.74 KiB) Viewed 4283 times

Is this something you can use? I’m thinking it may be for the right side, but if you can use it, it’s yours.

[8474]

Hi,

I really appreciate the offer but that is different than mine. I was at my hangar all day yesterday working on the plane and didn't think to take a picture. I will go back in a couple days so I can post what it looks like. With all the pictures I have seen of the different ones it sure looks like Cessna made a one off for the A model.

[8474]

Was back out today and remembered to take a picture. It's made from 2 pieces of thin mild steel, I didn't have anything that thin so just for the fun of it I made one up from .032 aluminum. I think that would work, but will look for some steel. I haven't made up a wooden drill stop yet as John suggested, but I think using that I would be able to carefully drill those rivets out.

[8474]

Check this out:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cessna-Aircraft ... %7Ciid%3A1


$175!!!!