Window Replacement C120

[edidin]

Any tips and tricks associated with replacing the door windows in a C120? I found a good video showing same in a C150, but the window frames on that airplane appears to differ from those in the 120, even if the basic process is the same.

The frame appears to be held together with a number of small pins or rivets. In the 150 there was a clear splice to be drilled out and freed to get enough opening to slide in the new window. In the 120 seems there are multiple splices/joints but suspect not all need to be opened to replace the plexiglas.

Thanks for any hints.

[2356]

You’ll need to drill out all the rivets on the frame. This will include the rivets on the window hinges. Going back a rivet squeezer makes the job easier.

[6643]

"Going back a rivet squeezer makes the job easier possible."

[edidin]

Thanks for the confirmation that the job is about as it looks...

[rframe]

"Going back a rivet squeezer makes the job easier possible."

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm about to replace my side windows and wanted clarification on this as I do not want to get part way done and realize I need to wait a week for tools I need to order, and I don't want to drop $150+ on a squeezer if I don't need it.

So, is a squeezer required for some reason I'm not seeing, or can I set these with a rivet gun and bucking bar? I'm assuming the flush factory head will be on the outside of the frame to ensure a clean fit against the door and a bucking bar laying on the inside of the frame (with adequate protection to avoid scratching the new plastic).

Thanks!

[6643]

So, is a squeezer required for some reason I'm not seeing, or can I set these with a rivet gun and bucking bar?

Picture the bucking bar laying up against the plexiglass. Then fire off the rivet gun. What happens to the plexi? I'm not sure how you can provide "adequate protection", and even if you can, the violent hammering on the outside of the frame, will surely crack it at least once.

Use "A" rivets instead of "AD" rivets. They're much softer and take less brute force to set.

[8342]

Using a squeezer really is the best way to do this job.
Ask around the local area, most likely some one has a squeezer they will let you borrow.
Most A&Ps will have one.
Where are you located?

Rick

[rframe]

Picture the bucking bar laying up against the plexiglass. Then fire off the rivet gun. What happens to the plexi? I'm not sure how you can provide "adequate protection", and even if you can, the violent hammering on the outside of the frame, will surely crack it at least once.

In my mind the protective sheet coating is still on the plexi and I'd lay a microfiber cloth under the bucking bar to act as a cushion and buffer for the vibration, but maybe I'm being overly optimistic on how that'd work. It certainly would suck to be part way through and crack it and have to disassemble it all again and start over.

Using a squeezer really is the best way to do this job. Ask around the local area, most likely some one has a squeezer they will let you borrow. Most A&Ps will have one. Where are you located?

I'm in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. I can probably track one down.

Thanks for the help.